Olomouc in Autumn

Autumn is possibly the most enchanting season to be in Olomouc. When the students come back, September becomes a celebration; there's one festival after another; the parks, gardens and hills turn red, copper and gold; the ice hockey starts again and most of the castles, caves and other attractions in the countryside are open daily (except Monday) until the end of September, then on weekends until the end of October.

September and October are perfect for cycling daytrips into the countryside and in South Moravia there's a wine festival almost every weekday. Burčák is the season's first fresh young wine and mushrooming is a favourite pastime of the locals. When you've had your fill of those, you might try the raspberries and apples that have lined the country paths since the time of the Hapsburgs.

Within Olomouc during autumn, it seems that as soon as one event ends the next one begins. The Radecký weekend is first; Radecký (Radetzky) was an Austrian General who commanded the Olomouc fortress towards the end of his career. His time in the old capital of Moravia is commemorated by a weekend of military bands from different countries, military reenactments and a pretty impressive fireworks display.

On a weekend in mid-September are the days of European Cultural heritage. There are a few special events, but for non-Czech speakers, the most interesting things are the historic buildings that are not usually open to the public; Hradisko monastery, the Archbishops palace, the red church that is now library storage and a special walking tour of the Olomouc underground passages being the highlights.

The Philharmonic Orchestra, Moravian Theatre and the Jazz Club all reopen after their summer holidays, and the international festivals of organ music and spiritual music take over the churches and palaces (sometimes it's possible to go in early and hear a rehearsal for free).

There's also the Autumn harvest festival at the fairgrounds, a poetry festival, a film festival, and if you get through all of that there are all those glorious golden afternoons to enjoy before the first snows arrive in November.